Sunday, July 26, 2009

Jeans - How to buy a pair of Jeans?

买牛仔裤的14大常识
通常从哪几个方面来检查一条牛仔裤的质量?  我们所说的牛仔裤质量,主要是指其内在质量,通常跟品牌及款式无关。一条牛仔裤的内在质量,主要是由面料质量、版型设计、车工质量、洗水质量、辅料质量等几个方面组成的。一条牛仔裤是否高档,除了做工精致和版型设计要好以外,面料和洗水的档次几乎决定了整条裤子的档次。  为什么说面料质量对一条牛仔裤的影响至关重要?  牛仔裤是很特殊的一类服装,它的主要特点是寿命很长,而且产品的价值随着寿命的增加也在不断地增加,也就是说越旧的牛仔裤,其实是应该越值钱的,同时也更漂亮。越洗越漂亮,越旧越有味,是牛仔裤不同于一般服装的显著特点。要达到这个目的,面料的质地无疑就显得至关重要了。面料不好的牛仔裤,不只是产品寿命短,穿着不贴身不舒服,而且易变型、掉色,在穿着过程中也达不到越旧越有价值的效果。同时,牛仔裤的附加值也是靠洗水来体现的,而洗水的好坏及效果,完全是依赖于面料的质地,没有好的面料,是根本不可能做出很高档的洗水效果来。可以说,一条牛仔裤的档次高低,很大程度上就是由面料的档次来决定的。消费者在购买牛仔裤时不考虑面料因素,是很不成熟的表现。  目前市场上面料掺假主要由哪些手段?  通常有原料掺假和组织掺假,原料掺假主要是指用价格相对低廉的化纤代替棉花,以及用落棉、回收棉(相当于造纸业中的废纸再生)这类严重影响人体健康的低劣原材料纺成纱线用于牛仔布的织造,染成深色后,通常消费都就无法辨别出来。比如现在市场上质量好点的10支环锭纺竹节纱,通常要23000元/吨上下,但回收棉纺成的纱线只要几千块钱一吨,差价惊人。弹力面料中采用劣质的氨纶丝造成产品洗几次后就没什么弹力。同时用于纱线染色的染料,价格也相差很大,质量差的布通常就是用最便宜的染料来染色的。组织掺假就是指有些面料看起来跟合格面料一样,但组织明显稀疏,布面风格远不如合格产品,也就是偷工减料。此外,一般质量差的布通常是由淘汰旧机(价格只相当于进口新织机的十分之一不到)织出来的,因受设备限制,织出来的布,不仅组织单一、品种以大路货为主,而且布面风格明显很差,布面痴点特别多。  版型(裤型)是一个什么概念?  通俗地来讲,就是一条牛仔裤在放纸样时,所有裁片的各项数据和参数。版型设计的风格和好坏,直接影响到一条牛仔裤的穿着舒服度和外观美感度。许多消费者通常会把版型跟款式混为一谈。消费者在购买牛仔裤时应该遵循什么原则来挑选?  首先得挑版型,版型不合自己,其它方面做得再好的牛仔裤都不应该去购买的。好的适合自己的版型,应该是穿上后,全身贴身舒服,没有勒的感觉,女孩子臀部和腿部曲线能体现完美,不要有不协调的松垮现象。版型和尺码合自己后,就看面料质地和洗水质量及车工质量,再检查下拉链等辅料质量,然后看产品中有没有自己中意的款式,最后综合价格因素,就可以考虑是否购买了。  如何检查车工质量?  一般消费者都会看,你可以翻开裤脚看看,锁边线、车线质量就相对易看出来。在拉链处,各类线比较多,也可以看出车工是否精致,还要注意检查打枣线的质量。有一个简单的方法,看车工质量如何,光看看裤子里边后腰位置的商标唛车的好不好就可以了。因为唛通常比较小,车线时对车工是一个考验,小东西但不易车好。在谈车工质量时不能忘记的是缝纫线的质量,通常低档货的线质量也是很差的,一拉就断。  如何简单看洗水的质量和档次?  洗水质量和档次是决定一条牛仔裤档次的主要因素,通常高档的牛仔裤,洗水会做的相对复杂,手工较多,而且洗手设计会比较有特点。因为许多洗水工艺主要是由工人一条条用手工做出来的,所以通常同一个品牌同一批货中,洗水质量都会有差别的。通常好的洗水,看起来很自然,不管是做手擦、马骝还是油画,洗出来的效果越像经过多年穿洗后自然磨损的褪色效果,就越好。做得差的洗水,一眼看上去就不真实不自然。  如何挑选牛仔裤的颜色?  以前牛仔裤的组织和颜色都很单一,现在牛仔面料也慢慢时装化了,在色彩上也变得丰富起来。但基本上还是以靛蓝和蓝黑为主。主要原因是蓝色洗水后的效果最让大众喜欢,而且经得住时间的考验。那些杂色牛仔裤曾经也有段时间风行过,但都像一阵风一样吹过去了,所以对大部分消费都来说,对牛仔裤在颜色方面作太多挑剔,就有点小题大做了。靛蓝是非坚固色,有越洗越漂亮的效果,所以它也是牛仔裤永恒的美丽色。牛仔面料的厚度是如何区分的?  布重跟纱支和织物经纬密度有关,纱越粗密度越大布越厚,其重量也越大。一般可分为轻型、中型和重型三类。轻型布重为200-340克/平方米(6-10盎司/平方码),中型340-450克/平米(10-13盎司/平方码),重型450克以上(13盎司/平方码以上)。  盎司、码和英寸是什么概念?  盎司,一般在纺织界简称OZ,它的换算是1盎司等于28.375克,可是在称布机上一般为28.35克。   1码=0.9144米。1英寸=2.54厘米。牛仔面料的长度通常是以码为单位来计算的,通常人们会说这卷布有多少码?你们的面料是多少钱一码?而牛仔裤的尺码通常是以英寸来放码的,比如确定27码的臀围91厘米为基准数,28码就比27码大一英寸,26码则比27码小一英寸。有些消费者以为自己的臀围是公制的二尺八,那牛仔裤的尺码就是28,这是不准确的。  一般消费者在购买牛仔裤时的误区有哪些?  因为一般消费者对面料和版型以及洗水质量不会鉴别,所以通常就想当然地一切以款式和价格为中心。其实,离开版型和面料质地以及加工质量来谈款式,是没有任何意义的,这也是一个相当大的消费误区。我们选购牛仔裤时,只有在保证版型、面料和加工都没什么大问题的前提下,才考虑挑选自己喜欢的款式。许多经典的包括世界知名品牌的牛仔裤,款式都做的极为简单,甚至许多普通消费者还认为它很丑很不时尚,但因为它们在版型、面料和加工这些内在质量方面做的很好,所以穿上这些裤子后,哪怕是款式做的很简单,它那种高档的贵族气质就是能体现出来。相反,许多没内在质量的牛仔裤,虽然款式模仿的很好,但怎么看都是不上档次的产品,而且洗过几次之后,其质量更是惨不忍睹。此外,消费者在消费时不太注重产品的性价比,过度追求便宜的垃圾产品或者是过度迷信一些高价但品质并不太好的洋品牌,也是一个非常不成熟的表现。  为什么说身材好的女孩子最适合穿牛仔裤?  显身材的服装,除了旗袍,应该就是牛仔裤了。同时,牛仔裤的流行程度和穿着方便度显然要高过旗袍,价格也公道。身材好特别是臀部曲线和腿形好的女孩子,穿上一条版型合适,档次不低的牛仔裤,走到大街上,杀伤力是无穷的。可惜现在外面大部分女孩子不会穿牛仔裤,造成许多身材很好的妹妹丑在一条烂裤上。女孩子穿牛仔裤一般掌握什么原则?  身材好加高挑的女孩子,短、中、长裤都合穿。腿短的女孩子,不适合穿五分以下的裤子,最好是穿短裤或者是膝盖以上的中裤加高跟鞋。大腿偏粗的女孩子,最好不要穿紧身牛仔裤,如果只是大腿偏粗但腿形还是很好很高挑的话,穿短裤也是一个好选择。偏瘦型的女孩子,最好不要穿中裤和短裤,以裤筒宽松点但能体现臀部曲线的长裤为佳。直筒裤最好配波鞋或其它平跟鞋。  为什么国际知名品牌牛仔裤的款式通常都做的比较简单?  牛仔裤自面世以来,流行了一百多年,其颜色和款式虽然一直在不断变化着,但靛蓝和五袋款一直是其经典色和经典款。越简单越经典,这就是牛仔裤的特色之一。许多款式,虽然流行了一阵,但通常很难长久,特别是现在市面上一些低档次的产品,款式和图案做得花里胡哨的,不懂行的人还当它很时尚很有品味,真正的行家是对其不屑一顾的。其实,真正很高档的面料,只适合通过做适当的洗水来体现它的档次,然后让时间来延伸它的高品质,如果那些很高档的面料,却用来做许多花哨的图案,实在是有点画蛇添足浪费材料。经典的东西,永远是靠内涵来体现的,牛仔裤也一样。

Thursday, July 16, 2009

http://hk.openbig.net/index.php/%E9%A6%96%E9%A0%81

haha:)

i am wondered how gorgerous and globalized wikipedia is!

cool~

but i am thinking abt the paton, the copyright thgs" hhe



btw, honestly, i won't go there to search for a public toilet" "

CHANEL ON ARMANI ?!

So, the first one is!!!


today i hv read a new from Yahoo HK (OMG! YAHOO IS REALLY GD! CAN'T LOOK DOWN ON THIS! I LOVE IT! MANY INFORMATION N NEWS I CAN FIND! NICE!)


and the new is


let me show u~^^


the point is , the man in the foto is the painter not the governer who responsible for cleaning the wall"
HA! wt an gd promotion of his lastest exhibtion
ZEVS
ART STATEMENT, CENTRAL
from today onwards till 30 sept!( a month to come)
((As well as the LV exhibition and Dior))
CAN'T WAIT TO C THIS LIBERTINE, OR~ SMART GUY^^

New Post!!!!

Hi, this is the new post, What for??

I just want to write down some interesting, inspiring, beautiful nice things and share.

as well as a data base for me to note down the stylish pretty stuff~

Enjoyyyyyyy!

Friday, April 24, 2009

Written Report - Color Forecasting of Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2010


Color forecasting of Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2010


Introduction


Forecasting based on thousands of researches and understanding to the brand thoughtfully in order to create an informative forecasting report.



My role here is to finding researches and backgrounds of Christian Dior, to forecast the color trend of its Haute Couture S/S 2010.

I found some factors that affecting the color trend and please do click to the labels on the right to read my analysis according to categories.

They includes Economic issue, environmental issue, celebrities, Asian Growth, Chief Creative Director, World Affair and most importantly is to stick to the ground of Dior Concept.


My analysis on the influences of color used in Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2010 by following factors


Economic Issue

From 2007 till now 2009, we are experiencing economic recession due to the global financial tsunami. It is widely believed that a business cycle takes placed for 10 years, which base on the past historic data – Economic trough appeared around 1991-1993 and 2001-2002. Hence, the hard time is predicted to be continued to 2010 and even worse.

What I did the researches are the color used in Christian Dior Haute Couture Collections during the day of trough in the past and the recent color used in recession period, 07-08.


By what i have observed and analysed, the color used in collection during Economy Contraction is truly decrease the variety compare with the peak business period. However, to compensate with this, higher chromas and values are applied to the outfits or golden yellow is appeared as one of the colors used, which shows the imaginations and dreams of Dior Concept.


Dior Concept

As Christian Dior launched his brand at the time of post-WWII period, hopes and imaginations should give to people to enjoy the time with no-war as the harsh suffering period was over. The New Look has been designed hence creating a fashion revolution in 1947-1957.

People nowadays do not forget this Dior Spirit and keep desiring fascinating outfits. Addition to this showman – John Galliano, people even demand new look but fit to the ground (bear in mind of the Dior’s style) in the collections.

Will he get his job done? With some of the disappointed comments from fashion editors and viewers towards the latest F/W Ready to Wear 2009, I believe John Galliano will turn fabrics into dreams and hopes in Couture S/S 2010, to continue the imagination created by Christian Dior, as Couture, is the way to let people dream.

Like the commercial of Miss Dior Cherie, creating dreams and mellow feelings from the perfume or, the brand.




Environmental issue

It is believed that John Galliano is sensitive to Environmental Protection resemble to what he commented on the economic situation this year- "Of course I’m sensitive to the economy, but is not my job. My job is to do the best I can to show the possibilities of Dior."
While is it also his job to add this element to the latest collection? I guess the possibility is low.

Unlike Stella McCartney, John Galliano seldom applied green elements as his inspiration and haven’t alleged himself as an environmentalist (while the former awarded as “Green designer of the Year” due to her insistence of environmental friendly designed)
Thus, will it be the trend for Galliano to follow?

According to his inspiration of collections, they mostly come from old people and exotic cultures after his voyages. As his job is to giving people hopes and imaginations, I think adding awareness of environmental friendly by using many greenish colors is not his cup of tea to his come up collection.



­Asian Growth

Asia culture is one of his favorite elements adds to the collections. Due to the rapid growth in all directions of developing countries like China and India, Galliano as being a travel-lover would not miss the trip and take the opportunity to enter the Asian market as what Christian Dior did during his Dior’s house career (he travelled to the America as he foresaw the opportunity).

I Forecast the Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2010 will also be added on some Asian elements, ornaments, floral or Asian embroidery may be applied on the outfits. By tracing back to Couture S/S 2009, 2008 and 2007, we can see the floral prints (Netherlands) 2009, ornaments 2008 and Japanese elements – obis, kimono, origami folding 2007 are applied.




Celebrities

Celebrities are one of the factors that will influence the Color Trend and they have the possibilities to be the inspiration of the designer to create the latest collection. Barack Obama, as an inspiration for some Top designers, his face is printed on the clothes and was presented during the Fashion weeks.

Focus on Christian Dior S/S RTW 09, it is obviously showing that the designs leaned to conservative (back to 80s) and avoid too much hues applied. Color used is low chroma and low value, added with more black and white in the collection.

This phenomenon can be reflected not only by the bad mood of economic downturn, but also by the influence of French First Lady, Carla Bruni, who dresses Dior whenever she shows up in front of the media. With the political image, what she should dress and dressed was formal but befits the occasions. As one of the France-origin Fashion Brand, John Galliano designed his latest collection more or less followed this conservation line.

However, when we turn our eyes to the Hollywood stars, who equally have the influence to the world, dressed like peacock on the red carpet in the 81st Oscars Awards. What did it imply?

When the air is full of sorrow and resentment due to the financial tsunami, they were willing to forgo black and grey dresses but to wear bright colors like red and lilac, what do you think they were feeling?

They absolutely desire happiness and wear optimistic vision to the economy. Hence, they dressed warm colors instead of cool and dull colors.

This is the phenomenon I analyzed, so as to the designer I suppose. Providing imagination through the clothes is definitely the job of Christian Dior designer. With the concept of providing dream and imagination of the brand, just like what current Dior's Chief Creative Director, John Galliano said: "It's our job to make people dream, and to provide the value in quality, cut, and imagination."

That’s why I forecast the feeling of color should be peaceful, cheerful and have healing effect.



My Forecasting Colors

With everyone waiting for a new look (implying dream and imagination) in the next Couture S/S, Mr. Galliano’s job definitely is to design beautiful, fascinating masterpieces to the world, for them to take a break in the economic recession.

So I forecast the color scheme in Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2010 collection is Double Complimentary color scheme.





Due to the complementary colors used, great contrast is created and draws people attention, so as to give a new fresh air to the world during this hard time.

Yellow and Purple, Mint and Magenta hues are used as Complementary Colors.

As Turquoise symbolizes emotional healing, pleasing, rich and protection, it would be a suitable hue used in the collection.

Brick red is used as the analogic color to magenta and purple.

Different Hues with High Chroma and High Value used(both are 80%), sharp, bright, and cheerful feelings are shown.

Achromatic color – White as a relief color and having peaceful implication, will be widely added in the collection or as individual outfits to intensify the color/meaning of colors surrounded them.

As we observed that monochromatic color scheme is often used in these 2 years including couture S/S09, F/W 08 and S/S 08. It becomes a bored color scheme in recent years.

That’s why I forecast 2 adjacent hues will be used in single outfits.

Principle of Order is achieved as it is based on an orderly plan even there are contrasting colors existed, giving the whole collection harmonic feeling.



Conclusion

Double Complimentary Color scheme and my related color forecasting on Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2010 is based on the consideration of Dior Concept, Style of Current designer, Color Trend, Economic issue, celebrities, advertisements of the brand and World affairs.